I know I haven't been doing a good enough job of giving the locations I'm in because to me it's obvious so why wouldn't everyone know the geography of China? So above I've posted a map of where the city is I'm talking about: Guangzhou city in Guangdong ("Canton") province. You can see Shenzhen a little below it and Hong Kong further below that.
I spent Monday-Wednesday siteseeing around Guangzhou, which is an hour train ride north of us (or an half an hour if you take the brand new bullet train! but my travel comrades didn't trust it yet). It is in the heart of Guangdong province (which is "Canton" in Cantonese) and at the Pearl River Delta, with a history as long as Greece's.
We had some big trouble with our hostel when we finally arrived in the late afternoon, because despite us having booked on hostelworld they hadn't recorded our booking and gave it away to other guests who wanted to extend their visit. We were stuck in their lobby trying to call and find other hostels ourselves, because instead of helping us the manager turned her phone off for a mystery hour and a half long meeting. The internet was slow at best and most of my group wanted to rest, so it took a while for Thomas and I too finally get a hold of a hostel with room for 5 at the last minute and find out how to get there. Another hour or so later and we finally were able to check in and dump our stuff. Luckily, the new hostel was much better.
We headed down to the Pearl River and ate some soup noodles (and beer) then took a short night river cruise. The moon was out and the weather was nice so it was pleasant indeed. Afterwards we wandered around the area, grabbed some more drinks and headed back to the hostel to play cards on the patio.
Sleeping was a little less than satisfactory, mainly attributed to the rock hard beds which I guess are comfortable to people with no hips to speak of (i.e. not foreign women) and the less-than-quiet dorm mates in our 8 person room.
But morning came as it always does and we grabbed some snacks from the bakery before heading to the famous Five Goat Park. There is a legend that celestial beings descended on goats and brought the first grain to Guangzhou, and so the goats are famous here. We walked the park and found a pagoda and a Sun Yat-Sen memorial tower, as well as a plaza with many people playing Chinese hacky-sac.
We headed to a peaceful buddhist temple and enjoyed the incense and quiet for a while, before taking a cab to the Nanyue king Mausoleum. It is a tomb of a famous Emperor dating back over 2,000 years. They have the orignal site of the tomb as well as a museum of artifacts and the largest collection of ceramic pillows (don't worry, someone had to state the apparently obvious to me too - yes, ceramic pillows would be dreadfully uncomfortable, they are only used for the dead). There was even some dust under a case with a plaque claiming it was the 2,000+ year old remains of the emperor's favorite concubine. 15 people were sacrificed and buried in the king's tomb.
Later we ventured to look for an antique market but it proved to be extremely not exciting so we head back.
For dinner we went to a Guangdong-style restaurant and tried to order some of the famous cuisine. Cantonese food is not my favorite in the scheme of Chinese food -- I'm more partial to northern cuisine -- because it involves a lot of things with a more squishy texture and loves to center around dishes like "running chicken" which is an entire chicken on a plate with a texture as if it had been boiled in goo. You will commonly find either entire animals, or different bits of them, like chicken feet or fish heads. I wasn't even aware fish heads were edible, but there you are. Cantonese people love it, but it's not my thing. Luckily it also includes a lot of seafood, which I love, and taro/pumpkin/coconut milk stews, which I love.
Everyone went back to SZ after dinner except me and Thomas, who wanted to stay another night and see some more things the next day. Which, after another unfortunately uncomfortable night, we did.
Following a much more relaxed itinerary, we went back to the Guangzhou Restaurant and ate some famous dim sum. This was more complicated to begin with because the menu had zero English or pictures. My Chinese is ok for generic foods, but the more specific the less I know. There has to be dozens of different words for dumplings, depending on how they're cooked and what's in them. But after explaining to the waitress that we couldn't read, she helped us pick some and the choices were good. It was delicious and I had plenty of tea, so felt great.
We walked east for about 45 minutes looking for the famous tower, and finally found it. We just wandered around for a while, looking at various cool skyscrapers (of which there are many) and happened to run into the Guangzhou Museum, so we browsed around inside. It was nothing too exciting, but I'm a little snobby about museums after being to Athens :-P.
Exhausted from carrying our backpacks around all day, we decided it was a good time to leave. I still want to go back to see some sites, like the Whampoa Military Academy (which is a famous place where many important revolutionary and WWII figures went, and is supposedly a museum of the revolution now) and the art museum.
It was a fun short trip and good practice for the upcoming one!
View from the hostel roof |
river cruise |
Pearl River |
Ceramic pillows |
Ancient hot pot |
Tomb entrance |
And thus five celestial beings descended on goats and brought grain and blessings to the people |
Is it just me or does the Opera House look like a spaceship? |
the famous Canton tower |
the museum |
Apparently the ancients like to build dioramas too |
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